20 TUX TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW
JACKETS
Tuxedo
A tuxedo jacket falls into one of two categories:
-- Single-breasted: One strip of buttons, from one to four, down the front.
The more buttons, the more slimming the jacket because the eye moves upward, rather than fixating on the gut.
-- Double-breasted: Two strips of buttons, with two to six buttons down the front. It's more formal, and more for the older set, like your dad.
Mandarin
This jacket features a stand-up collar with no lapel and is worn with a mandarin-collar shirt. While this style is a little late 90s, it does provide a sneaky way to avoid wearing a tie.
Full dress
These jackets actually have tails, with a two- to six-button front. These are generally worn at ultra-formal soirees and mostly are reserved for (obnoxious) guys with big egos and big bank accounts.
LAPELS
Notched lapel
This lapel features a triangular indention where the lapel joins the collar. It's the least formal lapel style.
Shawl collar
This is a smooth, rounded lapel with no notch.
Peaked lapel
This broad, V-shaped lapel points up and out just below the collar line.
SHIRTS
Wing collar
The most formal choice and the style most often worn with tuxedo jackets, this stand-up collar has downward points.
Spread collar
This resembles a standard button-front shirt but folds over and around the neck with a wide division between points in front. The wider collar makes it a good choice with a Euro tie or a standard necktie tied Windsor style.
Mandarin collar
The most contemporary-style tuxedo shirt, this collar stands up around the neck, above the tux buttons. It's a little outdated (popular about five years ago) but good for the guy who hates a tie.
CUFFS
Dress-shirt cuffs: Standard cuffs held together with cuff links. Formally fabulous.
French cuffs: Folded over and closed with cuff links. Fashion-forwardly fabulous.
Everyday cuffs: Cuffs that close with a button. A little on the casual side, but still acceptable if you're not a cuff link-wearing kind of guy.
TROUSERS
They're pretty much pants. Rented tux trousers often come with adjustable· waistbands, so they're practically one size fits all.
NECKWEAR
Necktie
Also called four-in-hand ties, these are perfect for more casual -- yet still elegant -- debs, especially when your date has a little bit of fun with the colour. Go for silk in silver or blue, or add a pop of colour with red.
Bow tie
A classic, bow ties come in several colours besides basic black --- white is reserved for super-formal events, and coloured bow ties are suitable for any occasion. Go for basic black if you're not sure.
ACCESSORIES
Waistcoats
Waistcoats are the way to go these days, since they're sophisticated, slimming, and come in a huge array of colours and patterns. Find waistcoats with either a full back (better for the guy who'll take off his jacket halfway through the night), or backless, with just a strap around the lower back.
Cummerbunds
These are pleated swatches of fabric worn around the waist. Basic black is your best bet here.
Cuff links
These can make or break a fabulous outfit. If simple elegance is your style, stick with a solid silver or gold. For outlandish, try something with a little panache like a pair of magic eightballs |
